![]() ![]() The shoulder cannon replaces the left beam saber handle, and once you’ve chosen the shoulder cannon, you’re pretty much stuck with it. I forgot to take a picture of the shoulder cannon and that’s one of the few traits that makes this kit unique to the other granddaddy gundam variants. What’s new for the granddaddy gundam is there’s an additional thruster at the calf and you can tuck it away if you so desire. The leg armor is very line heavy, so bust out that panel liner of your choice. The legs are fairly easy to build and it has some sliding armor gimmicks. So note to self: Never clip your alligator clips to the pegs. What I did is I applied some superglue to increase the mass of these pegs. The strength of the clips may have damaged the pegs, causing them to not securely fasten to the polycaps. ![]() The feet and leg joints were loose on my kit because I clipped my alligator clips on those pegs during painting. The feet are great with an ankle joint that can bend sideways really far, and while the toe joints can move sideways for more dynamic poses, they don’t actually help with keep the kit planted on the ground. Very solid joints for the skirt armor, they move out of the away easily, and the pegs of the legs move forward for more leg movement. I really love the waist unit of this kit. I painted the barrels so it’s easy to see where the gun barrels actually are. You’re given an option to use one or two wrist cannons, and I chose to have both arms equipped with said cannons. IIRC, this is the same arm frame used in the RX-78-2 version 2.0 back in 2008 (I think), and despite its age, the arm frame is very solid and the build is straightforward. Being able make neat hand gestures is nice at least. I hate these Emotion Manipulators, and I would’ve rather preferred fixed hands because the wrist joint is very weak and will loosen very quickly. For comparison, the head of the version 3.0 is bigger. And as you notice, the head is smaller in proportion to the torso, but the size grew on me overtime and I like it. I should’ve painted that small opening at the gold collar with black, but other than that, the torso looks great with or without any detailed painting. I painted the yellow parts gold, and did some panel lining. I also painted the plastic around the eyes to black to be more color accurate. I chose the yellow piece and painted with a mix of red and yellow. You’re given two options for the eyes: a solid yellow piece and a clear piece, if you plan on adding an LED unit. What’s great about the head and the eyes is you don’t need stickers–the black part around the eyes are pre-molded for you, and you just simply slide the eye pieces into the eye slits. I have no interest in getting an LED unit in the first place, so… There is a bay for an LED unit, but unfortunately the LED unit isn’t included. The shoulder joints are very tight and secure because the joints are part of the frame-the arm joints will never come off, and the range of motion is very great with the joints moving out of the torso for more posing options. The first thing you’ll notice is there is no core fighter in this kit, so that means the kit can do real ab crunches, and great side to side bends. Now that I’ve built the MG RX-78-02 Gundam, is it a better kit than the 3.0 in terms of looks and posability? But my new reason of getting another MG granddaddy is I got disappointed of the 3.0 due to how loose it gotten, and I’m afraid of even touching the kit because it may fall apart on me. When I built the MG RX-78-2 version 3.0, I thought of getting the over MG variants of the granddaddy gundam, so I can do Pillar Men poses.
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